Goodbye Namibia, Hello Botswana!

I write this from Botswana, where we arrived yesterday, but before I go any further, it is worth updating you on our last 24hours in Namibia as they were filled with true adventure and memorable experiences all thanks to, once again, the kindness of strangers. We left Rundu, Namibia at about 1am, waiting at a McDonalds-like restaurant for about eight hours. Those eight hours were filled with eating, sleeping, reading, and then, once the truck drivers started pulling in around 10pm - our hours passed by quickly with great conversation, laughter, and stories.

"Hi ladies, good evening....It's too bad you already have your bus ticket, we could have given you a ride, we gave a German hitchhiker a ride just the other day, he ended up biking through Angola, here, he is my facebook friend, nice guy!" Paul and Nobert were a pair of friends from the south coast of Namibia who were trucking Uranium and fish from Namibia, through Botswana, through Zimbabwe, Zambia, and into one of the more dangerous (especially recently) parts of Africa, the DRC (Democratic Republic of the Congo). Paul and Nobert were two characters full of smiles and as soon as they sat down next to us, they answered all of our questions and made us feel a million times more at ease about our next travel plans because up until talking to them, we really had no idea what we were going to do next, if we were going to go through Zimbabwe and Zambia, or one or the other, and in what order, we didn't know which side was best to view Victoria Falls from and I was very nervous about how quickly my passport was filling up. After talking to them, they looked through my passport, gave advice, drew out a good route, and then gave us their email addresses, facebook info., and phone numbers to reach them at if we should have any problems. They know these routes and these countries like the back of their hands and I only wish we had more time to hear their stories.

We arrived right near the border of Botswana after a bumpy and long (8hour) bus ride through Northern Namibia. We rolled in at about 7am, clueless, hungry, tired, and in need of a shower. Luckily, we met Amos. When we explained to Amos that we needed just a place to sleep and shower for the day, since we were leaving the next morning for Botswana, he told us he knew just the place, outside of town, because, that was cheaper. Would about 5dollars be reasonable for us? Yes it would. Even though Makayne and I had to share a single bed along with some spiders, it had the necessities. Amos wanted to be a teacher and had two front teeth missing that made his smile contagious. Amos said he would pick us up the next morning at 6am and also take us to the bus for us to catch our next ride into Botswana.

Well Makayne and I passed out until about one or so and after showering and sleeping, we were ready to explore town and eat some food. The only problem was we were pretty far outside of town and had no idea really exactly where we were. So we just started walking in the general direction of town and it didn't take more than a minute until we met Moshaa. It started out that Moshaa was just going to drop us off in town, but then he picked up his friend and they wanted to make sure we experienced a true Namibian meal like the locals, so then, on our never ending quest to be travelers more than tourists, we were dropped off at what appeared to be a closet like stall near the side of the road. Moshaa and his friend Thomas gave us their number and told us to call as soon as we were finished (but first they ordered our food for us since we were totally lost). Well, the food brought me right back to Kenya and these last few days of travel, we are slowly leaving the comforts of modern Africa and venturing into the heart. The fish was two pieces of fish, the scales, head, eyes, and all, the porridge was corn meal and water, and then there were some mixed greens. Across from us sat some other men so luckily we could peek at them to see how to best eat our fish. Let me just say that was the best fish I have ever had, and a I was so full I thought Makayne would have to carry me out. The whole meal was just a few dollars each. Moshaa came back with his friend Thomas and they then invited us to a gathering at the Zambezi River. Thank God not only because Makayne and I would have been bored to death sitting in our room all day but more importantly, this was one of the most beautiful and cool experiences I have ever had. We sat below the Zambia and Namibia line with Botswana only an hour to our east and we put our feet in the river and had a beer amongst hundreds of other Namibians who were swimming and playing in the rapids - the only place, we were told, safe from crocodiles and hippos.

We got a tour of some other local hangouts afterwards and enjoyed the atmosphere greatly, as well as learning more about our willing guides who we thought were just going to be a taxi ride into town, instead, they gave us a memorable last night in a beautiful country. They told us not to worry in Namibia, the people would protect us and care for us - and this was true throughout our whole time. We learned that Thomas is a police officer and Moshaa works for the Ministry of Gender Equality and Child Welfare. Thomas took us back to our lodge early that night so we could sleep and bought us some juice to drink before we went to bed. Moshaa texted us the next day to make sure we made it safely to Botswana.

Now we are staying at my friend Octavius' home. I met Octavius in 2008 when we both studied abroad in Kenya. In Africa, we meet again. He is at a conference out of town until tomorrow but left his keys with us, cooked us food and left it in his fridge, and I really cannot wait to see him.

Makayne and I have a river cruise booked for tomorrow and are going to do some errands, I have to run but will keep you as updated as I can. Peace!
Chelsey

Beauty is:

Beauty is sitting by this pool, overlooking the Okavango River, it winds and cuts through the border of friendly Namibia to the war torn and mysterious Angola, a country of diamonds, riches, and landmines.

Beauty is the peacocks roaming around my chair, God was being especially artistic with these creatures! I've seen them at home but they were never this colorful or huge, they every now and then stretch out their feathers, they reach taller then me and the birds strut around as if they were showing off which is what I would do if I were them.

Beauty is kindness. And I'm not talking about everyday kindness (which is also beautiful), but I mean the type of kindness that goes beyond what is asked, required, thought of.

The kindess of Petra's mom picking us up at the airport with a homemade sign. Or the kindness of a stranger opening up their home, like Petra and Lindi's families, but not just to give us a place to sleep but a home to come back to anytime. Beauty is in the kindness of Willem and his family, his dad is an artist but didn't just show us his work, he created art for us with our names on it and everything! And wIllem, not just sharing conversation about good books with me but giving me one to read and creating a CD with hundreds of Ebooks for me to put on my Kindle when I get home.

Beauty is exemplified in kindess that goes above and beyond. The kindness of Deon's wife who insisted we were not only well fed at her home but well fed on the road as well, she packed us tea and jam and sandwhiches for our journey ahead.

The kindness of Deon who arranged for a business trip hundreds of miles north of his home to Rundu, allowning Makayne and I to ride with so we could inch closer to our next destination, but not only that, we made a full day stop at Etosha National Park, ate at great restrauants, and stayed in luxury accomadations along the way. This gave us yet another experience to learn more about this beautiful part of the world and the people who call it home.

Beauty is in family and the feeling and presence of one. Beauty is in my family who rallies around my sister and I, constantly supporting us and one another. Beauty is in realizing that blessing in universal - whether we are praying over dinner with Petra's family or sitting around the TV at night listening to music with Deon's.

Beauty is in laughter. The nervous laughter when I was face to face with an elephant, starring into my car window no more than 10feet away, flapping his ears and stomping his feet.

Or my contagious laughter after some drinks and funny videos or stories around the campfire with Willem. Check out this video as an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsXyRVQN70U

or my laughter in the middle of the grocery store when the checkout lady saw my camera and demanded I take a picture of her, and then showed everyone at the store!

Beauty is in happiness, the children running alongside the road as we drive by slums and townships, barefoot, and my our standards, poor, but smiling all the same.

Beauty is in the excitment of a call, text, email, message, or comment from friends and family and students back home and the excitment I feel in looking forward to hugging them all when I get home (yes that means you!)

Beauty is in options. The freedom to take our time and travel through this country or change our mind and travel through that country. To spend one week here or one month there.

Beauty is in the options of my future and not knowing what I will do but knowing I have choices and being ok with that.

Beauty is in the wildlife of Africa and the respect for the power of the animals, so far we have seen over 20 African creatures and expect to only add to the list. Everything from seals, to elephants, to giraffes and zebra, to whales and wildebeest.

Beauty is in travel! In being brave and strapping on the backpack each morning, going to places with the hope of being a traveller more than a tourist. Of going with little plans and little money but a lot of desire to seek out adventure, change, and to see things off the beaten path. To leave your comfort zone and be scared. To take time and stop, look around, and be thankful, feel blessed. Be in awe and urge yourself to keep dreaming. I keep dreaming about seeing more of the world, it is my world, afterall. My brothers and sisters, I am a global citizen of this world.

Beauty is in the poor, the war torn lands, the complicated histories and controversial leaders, the countries you may not be able to point out on maps, the intimidating border posts, the pain and struggle of people, beauty is everywhere, it is there too, you just have to look for it.

Seek out beauty in the scenery, nature, animals, kindness, people, and situations around you.

Sleeping tonight in Rundu, Namibia. On the way to Katima, Namibia tomorrow, where after that, it is just an hour bus ride into Botswana.

Have a beautiful day! Chelsey

Sand in my Pockets

I knew almost immediately that I'd get along well with Willem. I could tell when he made a comment about not standing for racism and I was sure of it when he took us for drinks to a "township" (more inner city/diverse feeling part of town), then, I learned Willem shares my love for good conversation and a good read. Makayne and I couldn't be more excited to set out on a five day camping adventure into the desert with our new friend. Willem worked on a cruise ship with my friend Kristina last year and so Kristina helped to introduce us over Facebook.

Meanwhile, we had spent about three days at the Deon family home on top of a great hill, the view, and the family are amazing. Everyone we have stayed with have been complete strangers who have welcomed us into their homes and families. Deon is the father of Lindi, Lindi is the girl we hitchhiked with into Namibia, from Cape Town.

We set out bright and early on a sunny morning about a week ago for our camping trip. The night before, Deon and Willem poured over maps, making sure we would hit as many sights as possible over our trip from the capital city, Windhoek, to the 230 mile trek to the coast of Namibia, Swapkomund. We would camp in between the two destinations, stay on the coast in Willem's family cabin for three nights, then take a different route, going further south, home, where we would camp one last night.

Some highlights from the trip:

- camping beneath the stars with just a sleeping bag and cot - waking up to find jackal tracks an arms reach from where we slept - seeing the sunrise and sunset over dunes, mountains, and desert - driving among oryx, ostriches, springbok, flamingos, seals, pelicans, and fox - eating Willem's great cooking, even if we did have to patiently wait for the stick bread to bake, the soup to boil, or the sauce to finish - having to not worry about the time, being able to read a whole book in a matter of days, and reminding yourself that life is good and beautiful, as Willem said himself, every country is beautiful and when you are able to see that, and sit with a beer and watch the sunset on top of a mountain, you just have to remember that life is good - watching the sights roll by as I listen to hundreds of classic country songs, good music and good lyrics and think of the nice person who spent hours putting all those songs on my ipod the night before I left! - seeing the huge diversity Namibia has to offer, from desert to mountain to ocean - enjoying laughter and drinks with good company - running along the ocean while thousands upon thousands of seals make their way into the water as our paths just nearly touch - being in the presence of the world's largest dunes as I feel the sand in my hair, in between my toes, and nights later, in my pockets - climbing up those dunes and then whizzing down them on a piece of hard cardboard, screaming all the way down - enjoying life and breathing in the fresh air, happy to be a continent away and able to reflect and think

Tomorrow we leave for Etosha national park, something Makayne and I did not plan to do, we thought we would be buying a bus ticket and going overnight into Botswana but instead we are fortunate enough to ride along with Deon as he happens to head in that direction, we will take our time, a few days, and drive through one of the areas most known game parks to see hopefully the big five of game animals!

Deon, his wife Helene, and their two daughters have given us a home away from home, we spent our first night with them in Namibia and now will spend our last night in Namibia with their family.

Write more later, Peace, Chelsey

Goodbye South Africa, Hello Namibia

At 4am we met up with two kind sisters who agreed to let us ride with them the nearly 1,000 miles and 14 hour trip from Cape Town to Namibia. Over a bus, this would cost us around $100 dollars and take us over 20 hours, but instead, we were lucky enough to find Lindi, over a Facebook ridesharing site, who lives in Windhoek, Namibia, the capital city, but studies in Cape Town and happened to be going back home with her sister for her dad's birthday.

It was in the back of my mind that just maybe after sitting in the car together all day they would have some good suggestions of cheap places for my sister and I to stay for a night or two before we met up with Willem, a friend of a friend who would be hosting us. It wasn't more than five minutes into our trip that Lindi asked where we were staying, when we told her we were unsure, she didn't hesitate to tell us that we would be staying with her family until we figured out her plans.

Lindi's family lives on a mountain top with a huge deck overlooking the city, on that deck is swimming pool, hot tub, patio, fireplace, and giant grill. Last night we enjoyed the view as we were served up a huge barbeque dinner. The house is beautiful and we feel very lucky. We spent the night talking with Lindi's dad about the history and geography of Namibia and about his travles throughout the world. We hope to take our time travelling through this country as it seems like it has so much to offer. There are two very different sides of Africa, the haves and the have nots, the further into the North East we travel, we will experinece more of the have nots, but for now, regardless of that, we are experiencing real Africa and real families, for this, we are so grateful. We really feel like this has allowed us to be more than tourists.

The past couple of days we explored the waterfront in downtown Cape Town, went on a little boat cruise, and got to hear some stories from our captain who was on the TV show, Whale Wars! Nick and I used to religiously watch that show, so that fact, along with my obsession for whales, made me so excited, I made Makayne take a picture.

Along our long road trip into Namibia, we listened to some great music, took in the never ended and infinite desert, wound through mountains, and also got to snap a picture at the Tropic of Capicorn line!

While Lindi and her sister sleep, Makayne and I sat out on the deck and read in the sun, but now I can hear the table being set for lunch, so I will update in a few days!

peace, Chelsey

Backpacking versus Vacationing

Don't get me wrong, I know how incredibly lucky I am to be on this adventure and I am so thankful and I knew exactly what I was getting into and what backpacking would entail but maaaaaaaaaaan I forget how hard it is to be in backpacking budget travel mode, for example:

- I really wish I could stay in a hotel tonight instead of sharing a dorm with smelly men in the hippy backpacker commune where the bathroom door is broken and the music is loud...but the place is free and the hotel is $$$$ - Today when we went to Robben Island I really wanted to get out during our break, go in the gift shop and buy that $8 sandwich but instead Makayne and I made ourselves stay on the bus and imagine we were eating a Jimmy Johns sandwich while we watched everyone else eat and waited to get back to our hostel where we could eat our oranges and granola bars to tie us over - I really wanted to just take a taxi all the way back to our hostel instead of taking the local minibus and then hopping the train because I was so tired I was falling asleep on the ferry we were on earlier - I really want to take my clothes to the laundromat around the corner instead of washing them in the sink by hand in the bathroom

But these are not complaints, these are little reminders of what it means to live more simply and more basic in order to have the wonderful privilege of traveling, even if that means traveling on a budget.

On the flip side, it seems South Africa is the place for incredibly wealthy American tourists as well because we have seen some unbelievable hotels and restraunts and today when we took the Ferry to Robben Island to see where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned, we met two couples from Boston who had literally traveled the world together. They were my parents age and I hope one day I can travel half the places they have, I thought they were the opposite of Marla but also really cool that they are so open minded to use their money exploring the world. They also gave me hope that maybe one day I will be in a position to not have to pinch pennies when I travel and do some of the things that I had wanted to today, like eat that $8 sandwich at the gift shop, just maybe one day!

Meet Marla from Missouri

Hello from Cape Town, South Africa! After staying with Petra's family we were dropped off at a backpacker hostel where we were going to be able to stay for free, sharing a room with us was a whirlwind of energy in the form of a fifty something year old woman with a personality words can't even describe but let us just say unique! Her name was Marla and she has been walking across Africa since 2004. She says she is moved by God. Well, we told Marla that we were wanting to explore along the coast and peninsula of South Africa but were bummed out by the high cost of the tour buses and organized trips. Right before we hit the pillow for the night Marla mentions that it would be way cheaper to just rent a car and drive around and since she knows the area so well, she would consider taking us ....

The next morning, we find ourselves sitting in our rental car with crazy Marla at the steering wheel. We were to spend the next 48+ hours together in that car and thinking back now on our past two days, they were such an amazing blur I wonder if it really happened.

Marla is really something and thank God she drove because having the steering wheel on the opposite side, driving on the opposite side, and operating a stick shift was not something I was too comfortable with!

Marla was a basketball coach at Missouri state and led her team into the Final Four and then went on to become the first women's basketball coach at the University of Tulsa. She wasn't happy with that life though so quit her job, got divorced, and decided to travel Africa. Most of the time she spoke to us it was as if we were about to shoot a basket or we were on the clock, she was intense but also incredibly kind and interesting and we feel really lucky to have met her.

Our two day tour of the Cape of Africa cost us the same amount of money as one half day tour of just the city on a bus. We had a chance to really cover most of the peninsula of Cape Town and then go east along the coast all the way to the town of Hermanus which is known famously as being whale central for right and humpback whales. AND WE SAW WHALES upon whales, it was one of the most exciting moments of my life.

We learned a lot from our time with Marla - to always be open for adventure, strike up conversation with locals to make connections, when you are on a budget buy a loaf of bread and a bag of fruit from the grocery store for your meals....but for me, I learned that it is ok if I don't know exactly what I want to do when I get home and it is ok that I am single and don't own a home or have a career or have a family yet, because Marla is double my age and she is in the same place as me but she is happy with it. I will figure it out and I don't have to be in an urgent rush! I am going to live life and enjoy life and know God has a plan! Like my mom emailed me the other day: Jeremiah 29:11 ...For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the LORD, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future.

Cape Town: home away from home

We grabbed our backpacks and walked out of the Cape Town airport happy to be on African soil but even happier that before we could step outside, we see a smiling woman holding a sign with my name on it.

People asked me before my trip many questions but the main one was always, "aren't you scared or nervous...." About getting along with my sister, maybe, but I knew they meant for my safety. Honestly, I believe in the heart of humans and the good of people, and after four or so days in South Africa, that has shown through tremendously, which has started our trip off on an excellent foot.


One of my best friends worked on a cruise ship and met a girl from South Africa. After facebooking with this girl, Petra, she and her family agree to host us, but they did so much more than that. They made us feel at home, they picked us up from the airport, they fed us, they showed us around, they made Cape Town feel like our home away from home.

Day one we run errands, relax, and get introduced to her family which consists of three sisters - all around our age, her sisters' boyfriends, one very cute little brother, and her two loving parents. Their home is right outside of Cape Town and very beautiful, Makayne and I get our own room which is right down the hall from our own bathroom, outside is a pool and a view of Table Mountain.

Day two we go visit some of Cape Town's famous wine farms. Petra's sister is dating a very nice young man named Simon, he takes us to his family's wine farm to end the day. I know in the US I don't eat much meat but in South Africa they do, they call it a Braai which is similiar to a BBQ but over an open fire. We eat and drink all day with Petra's sisters and their friends. Then we go out and dance, and have more fun. Then...the next morning...we climb a mountain! A great cure for not only being jetlagged but also hungover ;)

Day three - oh Table Mountain, google image it now, everyone who knows me knows I love hiking and this is the most amazing hike I have ever done. So beautiful. Waterfalls along the way and sometimes you feel as if you are going straight up, when you get to the top, you are short of breath but it is more because of the view than the hike itself. I was really proud of Makayne because I know hiking isn't her thing but when you can see the whole city and ocean below, and the clouds are hanging right near you, you forget about the three hours of climbing. Makayne and Adele (Petra's sister) took the cable car down, but Petra and I walked, I am feeling it today!

Day four - Yes mother, we got our Malaria meds today so no worries! And now we are nice and cozy at the hippest little backpacker place in town, sad to leave Petra's family but happy to find a new family like atmosphere here where we are going to be hosted for two days for free. Makayne and I have spent maybe $60 since arriving in Cape Town so anyone who thinks they can't afford travel just needs to be smart and use couchsurfing.com! In a couple of days we will travel about one hour to Hermanus where it is whale watching season and a woman there is going to host us for free as well. We are getting very lucky with accomadations and our meals, we may have extra money to go shark diving or bungee jumping ;)

Love and peace to you all!

In route to Cape Town:stop in Dubai

On our way to Cape Town, we have a long layover in Dubai. It doesn't take but a glance out of the airplane window to see, even from thousands of feet in the sky, Dubai is a city of excess. It doesn't take but one step out of the airport to feel it is a true city in a desert, the temperatures soar above 100degrees.

Nevertheless, what an experience! While we didn't have more than a night, we made the most of it thanks to Hussein. We met Hussein standing outside of our hotel we were staying in just for a quick nap, shower, and meal. Hussein is from Pakistan but moved to Dubai to be a tour guide, and I must say, he did a great job! We say all of the crazy hotels built in the sea, thousand dollar a night palaces, and if you ever want to see the world's tallest, largest, highest, most expensive whatever, Dubai is your place.

We ended the night by sticking our feet in the ocean and having a true conversation with Hussein, I told him to turn off the American music in the car and play his favorite Pakistani music, I asked him about his family, and I felt happy when he wanted to take a picture to remember me by.

I wasn't feeling well before leaving Mpls so had been chugging orange juice and eating vitamins like crazy, luckily the Dubai airport had a clinic where I was seen for free by a doctor and sold some antibiotics. I am feeling great now!

I was also lucky to be able to sleep about 99% of each flight, hahaa, felt a little guilty that I couldn't stay awake to make it through one movie but Makayne must have watched at least seven.

Meet Abeba: A Dallas Layover Encounter with an Angell

Makayne and I have been in Cape Town a few days now but now, as I sit in this backpackers lounge that is kindly hosting us for free (we have yet to pay for accomadations since we landed), listening to Kesa the receptionist laugh and someone play guitar in the back, while Makayne listens to a woman from Missouri who has been travelling Africa since 2004 by foot tell her story... this is the first chance I have had to sit and write so I need to start from the begining. As I had predicted in my earlier blog, I didn't know what our 3.5 months of travel would entail exactly but I did know it would be filled with encounters with amazing people. Before we even landed in Africa, we already ran into one of the most inspiring and amazing people I can say I have met. Her name is Abeba and she met us walking from our airplane in Dallas to our connecting flight in Dubai.

Set aside any negative opinions you may hold about immigration now because when you are sitting face to face at a Ben and Jerrys eating one chicken salad with three forks because this beautiful woman you have known for five minutes decides to buy you lunch, you are staring at humanity in its kindest form in the face and there is no room for anything but love.

We ask Abeba, are you from Dubai? No, but she lived there. Oh, "we are going to Kenya eventually"...Abeba lived there too, as well as Uganda, and she isn't stopping in Dubai but lived there, she is on her way to her marraige, she is currently a student and worker in St. Paul, MN but on her way to thousands of miles to her wedding, which can't take place in her home country of Eritrea because of war, so she will be wed in Sudan. How did she end up in America, we don't ask, but she tells. In between tears and gasps, Makayne and I can't say anything, we only listen.

Abeba's journey to the USA wasn't an easy or quick one, it took her 6 months, 6 months of walking, going by train, going by boat, being imprisoned, being cold, lost, and starving. Nearly dying. 6 months...nevermind the cost she says, it was for something bigger. Did she tell her mom? No, only when she safely walked across Mexico and swam through a river to Texas, only after she lost her closest friend, who drowned, so close to the border, in the river. Only after she made it through Dubai, Iran, Columbia, Honduras, and Mexico to name only a few. I ask if she is disapointed in the US, is it everything she had imagined? She responds simply, "I am lucky, I have an education, I have a job" I say, well it must be hard still. She responds, "It is not hard because I am alive, I am thankful"

Wow, I want to reach out and give this woman a hug, I want to tell her that I am sorry that my country makes it so hard for her and imprisoned her and sent her back and made her almost die and didn't give her a green card until after one year. But she is happy and she is lucky and if she is, then I must remember to always be.

Instead of doing anything, she makes us finish the salad she buys, that we share in typical African fashion, and she then invites us into her home in St. Paul, gives us her address, tells us she will cook us a traditional dinner and show us her wedding pictures.

We board the plane feeling better after knowing her and regardless of what you think, I know that our country is a better place for having her, and so is her family, because now their daughter has a future.