Tuesday, September 30, 2008

A weekend at Malindi...hello ocean

This weekend, seven of my friends and I took a night bus to the coast of Kenya. We left Thursday night and got back Monday morning. We stayed in a five star resort for only 15 American dollars. We went snorkeling near a reef, laid on the beach, ate great food, cooked a great meal, toured the city, played in the waves, and had a blast.

One day, we buried one of our friends in the sand. He was standing up and the sand came to his chin, the hole was probably over 5 feet. As he was trying to get out, a group of probably near 15 Kenyans surrounded him on the beach - laughing, trying to help pull him out, looking confused, wondering what was going on. I have never laughed so hard in my life.

It was such a fun weekend. Relaxing too. It was so good to get away from this dirty dusty city of Nairobi. The people were so nice.

Now I'm back to reality...I'm battling a sore throat and cold, and a Swahili test around the corner. But tomorrow is the end of Muslim's Ramadan so it is a national holiday - I'm excited to sleep in and have a day to study. I'm off to wash my clothes now (ugh it's such a long process)...take care everyone.

Love, Chelsey

Monday, September 29, 2008

Kibera: A tour through the largest slum in the world

Some argue that Kibera is the second largest slum in the world and that the largest is in South Africa. Ask anyone here and they will disagree. Wikipedia says that just over 1 million live in Kibera, the real numbers are closer to 2 million. The government doesn't show Kibera on a map, the politicians won't acknowledge its existence. At 630 acres of pure garbage, sewage, corruption, crime, and homes compromised of scrap metal and whatever else (mud/straw) - it's hard to miss. Kibera IS the largest slum in the world and it is in my backyard. Just a short bus ride or quick walk past the school. The slum holds more than 25% of Nairobi's population.

Cartoon is 20 something years old with the biggest smile you have ever seen. He has lived in Kibera his whole life and knows nothing different. He took myself and three other students through the slum one afternoon. The tour was organized through a non profit organization one of the students here started a few years ago when she was 19 or so. It would have been impossible to meander through the narrow rocky slum that expands hundreds of acres without an experienced guide - the slum is a dangerous maze and you need to watch every step. Our teachers tell us if you go in at night, you will never find your way out.

The first hour of the tour I climbed into a woman's home and sat on her couch. She is Muslim so told us a little bit about Ramadan. She said after they fast during the day for the next month, they will give to the needy. I have never met anyone more needy than her in my life. While holding back my tears my friends handed her some beans we bought to give her and she said we will have to come back so she can make us dinner. She has lived in Kibera her whole life. Her brothers live in Kibera, her kids have gone to school in Kibera. As we climbed out of her dark mud/metal structure, she thanked us for caring enough to stop by and visit. She said "Don't ever forget me" - I don't think I could no matter how hard I tried.

Next, we met a group of men who created their own business in the slum. They collect bones from the slaughter house, than boil them, clean them, soak them, shape them, cut them, paint them, bead them, etc. They wired some wires to a mini shop and work all day everyday making bones into jewelery to sell. After he showed us (so proudly) all the steps of the process he ran to get us some finished bracelets. Then he had us all try one on. He preceded to tell us that he has done this for nine years and he would like us to each keep a bracelet as a gift from him - he wanted to thank us for stopping by and wanted to give us something to remember him by. I ended up buying a necklace from him as well for about two American dollars. He was a really nice guy.

The next hour, we climbed from the bottom of the slum to the top. If there were ever an opposite of a picture perfect view, this was it. On our way up, we had to literally climb and avoid human sewage. Kids were playing in piles of garbage. The houses, I don't get how people/families can fit inside.

We met Pamela. The first thing she said to us after inviting us into her little shop was, "Hi, I'm Pamela, I'm HIV positive, and I am not ashamed." She started her own support group and awareness campaign in Kibera. The women make things and sell them to raise money. She had her face on a poster in her shop - the poster was part of an advertisement campaign to get kids tested for HIV/AIDS, even though this women was missing all her teeth and had tattered clothes, she was really pretty.

After walking past a river that used to be full of fish years and years ago, we noticed it was green and polluted beyond recovery. We made our way to the orphanage that a friend here works with. The kids go to school and live in the orphanage and there were over 80 of them. We talked with the teachers and walked through the school, I will never complain about what a classroom looks like again! I wish I could put up pictures. The kids were cute but few spoke English so it was hard to communicate.

*********************************

One thing that surprised me most about my time in Kibera was how happy everyone was. No one ever asked for money, no one ever yelled out at us, no one ever made us feel unsafe. One of the poorest places on this earth and the people were smiling, welcoming, and happy we cared enough to walk through and talk to them about their lives. I asked Cartoon, why are people, why are you so happy? As an American, we have poverty - but it is nothing like this, do the people who live here know things could be better? Is it better to live happily - not knowing what you don't have than to live knowing how much better things could be?

Cartoon just smiled. He said this is what people know. People have their friends and their families and they try to better themselves for those people. The people are resourceful and they do what they can with what they have. They know that if they work hard, they can get somewhere - this is what drives a lot of them. A good group of them would not move if they had the chance...this is their home. They are generally happy.

Of course this doesn't mean things are looking up. Kibera grows each day. The government ignores each day. There are barely spaces to walk through, a garbage truck or emergency vehicle could never get in. People are hunger - not just for food but for acknowledgment - for a fair government - for access to basic human needs and resources, safe water to drink, toilets, showers, electricity. It is overwhelming.

Maybe look up Kibera on google pictures or online. Check out http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2003/oct/04/population.johnvidal

It is interesting to know how millions of our brothers and sisters in our world - our global neighbors in Africa, South America, Mexico, India, Asia, etc are living day to day.

I will never forget the people I met there or there stories.

-Chelsey

Monday, September 22, 2008

Address/#...new news!

Co/o MSID-Kenya
P.O. Box 66731-00800 Westlands
Nairobi, Kenya

Cell
0714924079

You would probably first dial 011254 than my phone number without the 0 in the beginning

(011254714924079)

This weekend some friends and I went to a Giraffe Sanctuary. I got a big sloppy kiss from the tallest mammal in the world! Don't be jealous Nick! It was cool - we got lot's of pictures. I will try to figure out if I can put pictures online, but I think it would be really hard and time consuming. The internet is not very reliable or fast.

On Saturday, after taking a trip to the giraffe place, we walked for about 10 miles around each of our neighborhoods. From my one of my friend's houses to mine it is a one hour and 15min walk! I'm def. getting my exercise - which is good because with the food we eat, we are all gaining weight. We eat so much starch and foods designed to fill you up...I know you wouldn't think I would gain weight here, but most of us are a little bit. The food contains a lot of flour, bread, starch, potatoes, beans, etc. I sure miss macaroni and cheese. And cold milk that isn't chunky! Nick - you'll have to make me one some grilled cheese when I get back - I miss that too. And fish... the first day in the city I ordered fish, I got the whole fish! Scales, bones, eyes, head, tail, etc!!!

After walking around, we went to a friend's families place. It's a fancy apartment building with a swimming pool in the back. We went swimming, I of course got sunburned even with my SPF 45! (just a little)...then we went in, watched Cars and Rent, and I slept over. We were so tired, we went to bed at 9.

One interesting thing...Some of the houses students are staying in are nicer than any American house I have ever seen. There are rich people in Kenya that work hard and have a lot to show for it. (My friend whose family has the fancy apartment - her host parents work for the UN) My family works hard, but their house is very modest. The differences are huge just within the city. My friend's family has a pool while my family doesn't have water two days a week. My family has three meals a day while behind us lies a slum.

Other news...
I went to the market with my mom and she is one cool lady. I wouldn't want to mess with her. Some guy came up to me asking for money and I thought she was gonna smack him! She is so independent. She is a feminist and really speaks her mind. She has two little kids, and is going back to school for a masters degree in hopes that if she takes one class a year, she can finish and get a better job before her youngest starts primary school. She told me that whoever says a woman can't have a career and a family at the same time needs a talking to. She sings and dances really loud and crazy in church. She def. is the one that holds the house together. I really like her! My dad is cool too but plays more of a backseat role. The little kids are so cute but can really be trouble makers...the girl sure knows how to make her little brother mad.

All in all things are good. Soon we are going to start planning some weekend trips and I look forward to that. I can't believe I have been here for 22 days already.

Thanks to everyone for commenting and reading my blogs - I really appreciate it and hope they are not boring for you.

Antie Andi - Hope your foot heals fast...that would not be fun, at least it will be during the colder months that you will have to have the cast/brace thing

Uncle Mike - I'm going to read your caring bridge site next - I've been keeping up with it and I'm so proud of your progress

Nick (K) - YOU'RE ENGAGED!!!!!!! I'm gonna try to call to wish you and Amanda congrats! Don't get married till I get home!!!

Mom - Seriously, wish you could call me.

Everyone else!!! - love you all and miss you all and hope things are good. :)

Love, Chelsey

Five Senses of Nairobi on my Walk to School

Sights

On my walk to school I see friendly faces and big smiles welcoming me to Kenya. Or do I see those faces really hoping for some money and some business? That is one dilemma. I see beautiful black faces but no white faces - at least not in my neighborhood. Maybe that is the reason why I see the stares, the whispers, the surprise, and the pointing. I see poverty. Children playing amongst the garbage, illegal stands everywhere, knocked down - some burning, some still standing, some being built up again. I see the city council came by last night and flattened all the stands. "That will show them" - but they are up and running again. I see the most random products. I see despair but I see hope.

Smells

On my walk to school I smell garbage. Rotting garbage, fresh garbage, and the worst, smoking and burning garbage. I smell year's worth of garbage up to my knee's worth of garbage. I smell exhaust. I smell the man in front of me. I smell the woman behind me. These are all bad smells. My relief is a small scent of fresh fruit but that is only for a moment. My nostrils burn.

Sounds

On my walk to school, I hear my family laughing, yelling, and singing before I shut the door. I hear the TV before I leave the gate. There is never silence. I hear wild cats fighting, people working, talking, doing business. I hear American rap music. I hear buses and cars, honking and beeping. Early traffic jams. I hear "Muzungo" (white person) "How are you" "Hallo" "Come look, come buy"....then I hear myself sigh, laugh or repeat: no, no, no. I hear "Give me money" I hear people wanting to make a living. People who want money. People who need money.

Tastes

On my walk to school, I taste dust and exhaust. My mouth waters for the fruit on the sides of the roads. Can I eat that, or will I get sick?

Feelings

On my walk to school, I feel nervous, but at the same time, strong and independent. I have come so far from the first day in this city. I feel rude for not replying to the group at the corner of Kenyatta Market who scream out to me everyday "Hi - how are you?" But I was told to keep walking. I never feel I am unsafe or in danger. I feel happy when I look around and see a world so new and different. I feel guilty and sad that some of these differences are kids with no shoes, garbage up to my waist, sewage on the streets, illegal vendors, etc, etc, etc. I feel overwhelmed. I feel thankful to be an American but embarrassed. I feel like I need to reach out and help...what can I do? I don't know what to feel.

Freckle Disease

Conversation with neighbor boy, Levee, age 7:

"What are all of those dots on you?"

Conversation with friend's host brother, Vance, age 10:

**He rubs my arm with a scared/interested look**
"What is on your skin?"

His Dad:

"Is there a cure for freckles? A medicine or cream? As long as you are confident with them - I know women want to look as beautiful as possible. What? You like having them? What if you could get rid of them - you would, wouldn't you? What? You would keep them? What are they? Are they normal? What - they come out more with sun - oh no."

The son:

"Dad, are they contagious? **Points to arm** I think I am getting one!"

Host family:

"We don't understand freckles."

Friend's mom:

"I wish you would put cream on your face."


........I guess I'm a freak of nature ??? No matter how hard I try to explain, it is useless.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Jambo! News about my internship and life in Kenya...

Hey everyone! It is day 15 for me in Kenya and there is a lot of good news:
- I haven't gotten sick
- I know how to get home without getting lost
- I learned how to say - in Swahili, "No, I have no money, I am a student!"
- Hiding money in my bra and socks come second nature
- I have my shower down to about 7 minutes
- I know what NOT to order at a restraunt!!!
- I know where I should walk really fast and avoid all eye contact!
- I don't miss home, macaroni and cheese, and my bed as much
- I don't even notice I am under a mosquito net at night
- And among many other things - I found out my what my internship will be!

For those unfamiliar with my program, I study for the first half than volunteer in a rural area through an internship for the second half. So, after my time here is finished, I will be moving onto a small village just outside of Kisumu (near Lake Victoria and Uganda)...I will be living with an older widowed woman who runs a daycare and always has little kids running about. The village is self sustaining so they farm and grow all of their own food. Also, in the village is an orphanage and primary school. I will be teaching agricultural education to the orphans that attend the primary school then helping with the growing of food.

These are the details I have gotten so far - they could be a little off but that's the jist of it. I am very excited because it suits me perfectly and I adore little kids and have a big passion for agriculture - which is a vital industry here that over 75% of the population is directly involved in. In the USA, only 2% of the population is directly involved in production agriculture.

What else is new? I am connecting more and more with my host family although I have learned what it is like to have little (very litte) siblings. While they are so cute, they are a handful! They have ripped my homework, eaten my cards, broken my flashlight, hid my candy, and run in my room at all times to jump on my bed, try to brush my hair, etc, etc!!! I told my host mom that I want to wait a loooooooooong time before I have kids. My host mom is a really cool woman. Yesterday I found out she is going to school to get her master's degree in psycology, meanwhile she works selling chickens. My dad is an engineer. Their dream is to one day move into a bigger house. The only person I haven't connected with is the house-help, I hope to connect more with her because she has to teach me how to wash my clothes today! I haven't washed any clothes since I've been here and I guess it is kind of a process. Appliances like washers and dryers, air conditioners, and even refridgerators are not very common at all.

Class is going better but some of what we are learning is frustrating and discouraging, there are so many problems and issues in Africa, other third world countries, and the world in general, it is sometimes overwhelming. Everything is so corrupt over here I can't believe how full of hope everyone is. For example, the police rent out their guns to people in the slums at night, they pretend to shake hands with Matatu (mini buses) drivers but really take money as a bribe not to report illegal driving. The police are underpaid. A common theme is steal or starve. The city doesn't even have enough water for their citizens but you will find coca cola stands everywhere. For three days my family had no water...couldn't flush the toilet, brush teeth, take a shower, cook with water, wash hands, etc. This is normal. The garbage is everywhere, sewage, people setting up stands at every free inch of space to sell any random thing you can imagine. In the slums (some of the largest in the world are here) children can't go to school because they need to take care of their siblings, work, or are too malnourished or sick to even attend, or can't afford the mandatory uniform. There was also a big news story about children getting electrocuted because the slums are trying to illegally take wires and steal electricity and there are loose wires everywhere. Another story was that there was a big raid on an illegal form of alcohol that is home brewed with things like lighter fluid, gasoline, etc. So, instead of trying to help the problem, the brewing industry is trying to create a cheaper and stronger alcohol so that the people in the slums can not only afford it, but get drunker off of it faster. They are doing research in the slum and testing it out. I guess the USA has many problems too, but they seem to be deeper and more widespread here. It is hard to explain without seeing it. While we have homelessness and low income housing, if you were to see a slum here, it is different. It is as far as the eye can see, an ocean of poverty. Along with that poverty are a million other problems. And unlike the USA - there aren't very many or even any (in some cases) shelters, rehab programs, education programs, organizations, and finances to help even begin to move in the right direction.

On a totally different note, speaking of the vendors and people in the markets... when they see me, because I am white, I am surrounded! I am automatically the richest person they have seen - I am automatically American. I can automatically send a message to my president for them, get them a visa, etc. I can work miracles and spend money like it's endless. (In their opinion!) The only other white people I have seen are ex-patriots - as my host mom says, "The colonist's children or the colonists themselves who won't leave our country."

There is a lot of crazy history in Africa and it is all very interesting. Everyone is welcoming and I am glad to be here. Even the first day, walking in the pouring rain, completely lost and crying, trying to get home, as a bus drove by and splashed me with mud, someone yelled, "Welcome to Kenya!" and you just have to stop and laugh. :)

Miss you all and hope things are well. Feel free to write me mail or call me if you're bored! My mom, grandma and grandpa K, and nick all have my info. so you can get it from them (I can't remember it off hand!)...

LOVE, Chelsey

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

I'm Here !!!

hey everyone. I am safe and sound in Nairobi, Kenya and entering my second week here. Things are good for the most part, it’s exciting to be here and everyday is an adventure. It is def. eye opening but I am also trying to conquer some everyday challenges and the homesickness I am feeling (who woulda thought?!)….

The first week here was orientation in Nakuru National Park right in the rift valley region (look it up – it’s cool)…animals everywhere. It was like a movie. Giraffes, zebras, baboons (like squirrels in the US!), lions, hippos, rhinos, etc.

Everyone is so so so nice and supportive and understanding. The food is ok, sometimes good, sometimes bad, getting used to it everyday. There are a lot of differences and a lot of similarities in everything.

My family is great. Richie is the husband, Kathleen the wife, Wangari the 6 yr old girl, and Mugambi the soon to be 2 yr old boy. The kids adore me and the boy calls out my name constantly. They always make me feel better. There are always extended family, one uncle who is my age – Eric, he is very helpful and I’ve had lot’s of long talks with him about my challenges. He is really re assuring and walks me part way to school and tells me to pray, etc. Very nice.

Some of my challenges were little things at first, those who know me well know I like to be clean all the time and want everything sanitary – that kinda goes out the window here. The first night our bathrooms were a whole in the ground and our showers a bucket of cold water! That is minor – the poverty and garbage everywhere – slums next to mansions, being a minority, etc is more of a challenge.

Also, as everyone knows, I am bad at directions – I have not gotten home yet without lots of help!

Swahili is a fun language but hard for me to learn.

Things overall are lookin up and I hope to update once a week. The internet gets expensive, but I miss you all and I hope things are good.

I’m onto my next adventure (walking home!)

LOVE, CHELSEY