Some argue that Kibera is the second largest slum in the world and that the largest is in South Africa. Ask anyone here and they will disagree. Wikipedia says that just over 1 million live in Kibera, the real numbers are closer to 2 million. The government doesn't show Kibera on a map, the politicians won't acknowledge its existence. At 630 acres of pure garbage, sewage, corruption, crime, and homes compromised of scrap metal and whatever else (mud/straw) - it's hard to miss. Kibera IS the largest slum in the world and it is in my backyard. Just a short bus ride or quick walk past the school. The slum holds more than 25% of Nairobi's population.
Cartoon is 20 something years old with the biggest smile you have ever seen. He has lived in Kibera his whole life and knows nothing different. He took myself and three other students through the slum one afternoon. The tour was organized through a non profit organization one of the students here started a few years ago when she was 19 or so. It would have been impossible to meander through the narrow rocky slum that expands hundreds of acres without an experienced guide - the slum is a dangerous maze and you need to watch every step. Our teachers tell us if you go in at night, you will never find your way out.
The first hour of the tour I climbed into a woman's home and sat on her couch. She is Muslim so told us a little bit about Ramadan. She said after they fast during the day for the next month, they will give to the needy. I have never met anyone more needy than her in my life. While holding back my tears my friends handed her some beans we bought to give her and she said we will have to come back so she can make us dinner. She has lived in Kibera her whole life. Her brothers live in Kibera, her kids have gone to school in Kibera. As we climbed out of her dark mud/metal structure, she thanked us for caring enough to stop by and visit. She said "Don't ever forget me" - I don't think I could no matter how hard I tried.
Next, we met a group of men who created their own business in the slum. They collect bones from the slaughter house, than boil them, clean them, soak them, shape them, cut them, paint them, bead them, etc. They wired some wires to a mini shop and work all day everyday making bones into jewelery to sell. After he showed us (so proudly) all the steps of the process he ran to get us some finished bracelets. Then he had us all try one on. He preceded to tell us that he has done this for nine years and he would like us to each keep a bracelet as a gift from him - he wanted to thank us for stopping by and wanted to give us something to remember him by. I ended up buying a necklace from him as well for about two American dollars. He was a really nice guy.
The next hour, we climbed from the bottom of the slum to the top. If there were ever an opposite of a picture perfect view, this was it. On our way up, we had to literally climb and avoid human sewage. Kids were playing in piles of garbage. The houses, I don't get how people/families can fit inside.
We met Pamela. The first thing she said to us after inviting us into her little shop was, "Hi, I'm Pamela, I'm HIV positive, and I am not ashamed." She started her own support group and awareness campaign in Kibera. The women make things and sell them to raise money. She had her face on a poster in her shop - the poster was part of an advertisement campaign to get kids tested for HIV/AIDS, even though this women was missing all her teeth and had tattered clothes, she was really pretty.
After walking past a river that used to be full of fish years and years ago, we noticed it was green and polluted beyond recovery. We made our way to the orphanage that a friend here works with. The kids go to school and live in the orphanage and there were over 80 of them. We talked with the teachers and walked through the school, I will never complain about what a classroom looks like again! I wish I could put up pictures. The kids were cute but few spoke English so it was hard to communicate.
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One thing that surprised me most about my time in Kibera was how happy everyone was. No one ever asked for money, no one ever yelled out at us, no one ever made us feel unsafe. One of the poorest places on this earth and the people were smiling, welcoming, and happy we cared enough to walk through and talk to them about their lives. I asked Cartoon, why are people, why are you so happy? As an American, we have poverty - but it is nothing like this, do the people who live here know things could be better? Is it better to live happily - not knowing what you don't have than to live knowing how much better things could be?
Cartoon just smiled. He said this is what people know. People have their friends and their families and they try to better themselves for those people. The people are resourceful and they do what they can with what they have. They know that if they work hard, they can get somewhere - this is what drives a lot of them. A good group of them would not move if they had the chance...this is their home. They are generally happy.
Of course this doesn't mean things are looking up. Kibera grows each day. The government ignores each day. There are barely spaces to walk through, a garbage truck or emergency vehicle could never get in. People are hunger - not just for food but for acknowledgment - for a fair government - for access to basic human needs and resources, safe water to drink, toilets, showers, electricity. It is overwhelming.
Maybe look up Kibera on google pictures or online. Check out http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2003/oct/04/population.johnvidal
It is interesting to know how millions of our brothers and sisters in our world - our global neighbors in Africa, South America, Mexico, India, Asia, etc are living day to day.
I will never forget the people I met there or there stories.
-Chelsey
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